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My mother tells of raising chickens and cows even when she was a child, but milking the cows stopped when one surly beast kicked my grandmother. They filled the freezer with beef instead!  
Serves 4 to 6


• 2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 head cauliflower, separated into florets
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1/4 cup buttermilk, plus more if needed
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, place the potatoes and cover with cold water. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil over high heat; add the cauliflower, garlic, and carrot. Decrease the heat to low. Simmer gently until the vegetables are fork tender, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the buttermilk and butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until the butter is melted; cover and keep warm.

Drain the vegetables in a colander, and return them to the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until a floury film forms on the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Mash the vegetables in the saucepan until smooth with a ricer, food mill, or potato masher. Add the warm buttermilk mixture and the parsley, stirring vigorously until well combined. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper.

Serve immediately.

Recipe from BON APPÉTIT, Y’ALL
by Virginia Willis (Ten Speed Press, $32.50/HC, May 2008)


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