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This clear golden liquid is the all-purpose meat stock used in my kitchens. Instead of utilizing just one meat, I combine chicken, pork, and beef for a stock with depth of taste and supple body. Another interesting change from a classic French stock is the lack of vegetables—the stock is seasoned with dried lonqan, for the barest hint of sweetness, as well as with dried citrus, and white peppercorns.
Makes 3 quarts (3 liters)
• 1 1/2 pounds (675 g) fresh ham, trimmed of fat and sinew, cut into 1 1/2-inch (4 cm) pieces
• 1 pound (450 g) chicken thighs or drumsticks, chopped into large pieces with a cleaver
• 1 pound (450 g) pork neck bones
• 1 pound (450 g) beef shin
• 2 teaspoons dned longan
• 2 pieces dried citrus peel, about 1-inch (2 1/2 cm) square each
• 8 white peppercorns
1. Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil over high heat Have a large bowl of ice water nearby.
2. Add the ham and cook until the water comes back to a boil. Using a large wire skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the ham to the ice water to cool down immediately. Remove the blanched ham from the ice water and drain in a large colander.
3. In separate batches, repeat the blanching and shocking in ice water with the chicken, pork neck bones, and beef shin (Two pots of boiling water come in handy here to speed up the process) This step removes blood and excess fat from the meat and helps create a clear stock.
4. Rinse the meat in the colander and clean the stockpot before returning the meat to the stockpot Add fresh cold water to cover the meats by 1 inch (2 1/2 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, skimming whenever needed, for 4 hours.
5. Add the longan, citrus peel, and peppercorns and continue simmering for 2 hours longer
6. Strain the stock in a chinois or colander over a large bowl sitting in a larger bowl of ice water. Cool. Transfer the stock to covered containers Refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.
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