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Review by Bill Marsano
How embarrassing to have to review a $10 item, and a pizza wheel, at that. Embarrassing not for me but for the kitchen-gadget industry, which has taken until now to produce a decent pizza wheel.
Nothing crimps an evening of home-made pizza more or more often that the struggle to cut the thing--sawing back and forth as the pie slips and slides--with one of those little clumsy jobs with a wee little wheel that is dwarfed by your hand, so you can't see what you're doing and doesn't cut anyway. These things are as inefficient as they are ubiquitous. Eventually you give up and toss it, thinking to do better with the big-wheeled long-handled model that is supposed to be an improvement. But it isn't. The long handle simply unbalances the thing, putting the effort behind the wheel, so you end up pushing instead of cutting.
This little masterpiece is by Zyliss, the Swiss gadget-maker. It has a 4.25-inch wheel that is plenty big and plenty sharp. There is no handle at all--just a grip in the form of the half-moon housing. This lets you put direct downward pressure on the wheel, so you cut right through the pie the first time. It's a well-designed pleasure to use.
The hosing swivels apart so the wheel can be slipped out for washing, thus completing a superb piece of design. And for a measley ten bucks! I tell you, you can't beat it.
By Bill Marsano
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