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Food for Thought - Mar 10, 2010 - Mark R. Vogel - Epicure1@optonline.net - Mark's Article Archive
MEAT & HEAT
Recipe below One of my favorite combinations is meat and hot peppers. There is something about meat, particularly red meat, and hot peppers that I find irresistibly enticing. Like most "chile heads" I think a wide variety of foods are amenable to heat augmentation, but for our present purposes I wish to focus on meat dishes that are hot. Allow me to propose an informal distinction between "hot" and "spicy" in the interest of clarity. By "hot" I am specifically referring to chile peppers and more specifically, capsaicin, the chemical compound that gives hot peppers their fire. I think of "spicy" as spices or aromatic vegetables that are piquant, but do not contain capsaicin. Thus, black pepper and garlic are spicy while jalapenos are hot.
I see four avenues by which to incorporate hot peppers into your meat: hot chile oil, dried ground chile pepper, hot sauces, and most obviously, directly employing whole hot peppers, be them fresh, dried or canned.
You can buy chile oil or you can easily make your own by simply adding ground hot peppers to a container of oil and allowing it time to infuse. The oil can be used as a constituent for a marinade or another sauce, or to sauté or pan-fry your meat. Or you can drizzle some on at the end as a finishing touch.
There are many varieties of pre-made, dried, ground hot pepper. Some are in powdered form such as ground cayenne and some are in flakes like the crushed hot pepper found in pizza parlors everywhere. But of course, buying whole chiles, (fresh or dried), and making your own will afford the best flavor. If the peppers are already dried, merely whiz them in a spice grinder or food processor and then store in a jar. If they are fresh, cut them open, spread them out on a sheet tray, place them in a 200 degree oven overnight until dried, and then grind them. Ground hot pepper can be added to a marinade or a spice rub applied to meat before cooking. Or you can sprinkle some in as the dish is cooking or again, use it as a condiment it at the end of cooking. Like most dried spices however, you will reap its fullest flavor if the recipe in question involves liquid and the ground chiles are allowed to slowly permeate it.
If you plan on relying on store-bought chile powder, please note that there is a difference between chile (with an "e") powder and chili (with an "i") powder. Chile (with an "e") powder is solely ground chile peppers. Chili (with an "i") powder is a mixture of chile powder and other spices such as cumin, coriander, garlic, etc.
As for hot sauces, there's basically an infinite number based on every hot pepper imaginable and in conjunction with innumerable other ingredients. Choose the one you like based on taste and heat level. Then, like hot oil or chile powder, incorporate it into a marinade, utilize it as a component for a sauce, or dispense it straight on its own, as a condiment at the table.
Finally, there are fresh chile peppers, whole dried chiles, and canned chiles. Fresh chiles can easily be chopped and added to a dish at virtually any point in the cooking process. Sauté them with onions and/or garlic and then adorn your steak. I also like grilled long hot peppers, left whole, with steak. Or I might sprinkle freshly chopped peppers on my meat at the table. Or let them bathe in the fluid for a braised meat dish.
Dried whole chiles are usually soaked in hot water first, and then used like fresh ones. Finely strain the fluid they soaked in with cheesecloth and then use it to deglaze a pan or as a component of a sauce or cooking liquid. Use either fresh or whole dried chiles to make your own hot sauce. Chop and boil them in a water/vinegar combo with other aromatics and/or spices and then whiz everything in a blender.
Canned chile peppers, such as chipotles, (smoked jalapenos), can be used like fresh chiles. They are very hot and the sauce they are packed in, called adobo, is delicious.
RECIPE SPICY MEATBALLS IN BEER-CHILI SAUCE
For the meatballs: ~ 3 shallots, diced ~ Olive oil, as needed ~ 4 cloves garlic, minced ~ 2 lbs total weight, mixed ground beef, pork and veal ~ 4 heaping tablespoons mayonnaise ~ 2 eggs, beaten ~ A few squirts of Worcestershire sauce ~ A handful of chopped parsley ~ Ground cayenne pepper, to taste ~ Salt and pepper, to taste
For the sauce: ~ 2 (12-oz.) bottles Hein chili sauce ~ 1 (12-oz.) can of beer ~ A few squirts of Worcestershire sauce ~ Ground cayenne pepper or your favorite hot sauce, to taste ~ 2 tablespoons brown sugar (optional)
Directions: Sauté the shallots in the olive oil until soft. Add the garlic and sauté less than a minute. Add the shallot/garlic mixture and the remaining oil from the pan to the meat.
Mix all of the ingredients for the meatballs and form into balls of desired size.
In a large, heavy bottomed Dutch oven, brown the meatballs in olive oil in batches.
After the last batch, remove the meatballs and drain the fat from the pot. Add the chili sauce and use it to deglaze the bottom of the pot, scraping off the brown bits with a wooden spoon. Add the remaining ingredients for the sauce. The chili sauce is already somewhat sweet but if you prefer it sweeter add the sugar.
Cover the pot and simmer the meatballs on a low temperature as evidenced by bubbles gently breaking the surface, for one hour.
Serve them as is, over noodles, or make a sandwich on a hoagie roll.
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'Food for Thought' by Mark Vogel is published every Wednesday. Mark Vogel Interview
Archive of previous articles by Mark Vogel:
* The Stock Market * Real Strawberries * Crabs Are Delectable * Burgundy * The Right Cookware * Where's the Beef? * A Matter of Taste * Alien Vegetables * Don't be Chicken * From Russia with Love * Breaking the Rules * Biscuits & Gravy * They're Grrrrreat! * The Key to Cooking * Vampire Repellant * It's The Great Pumpkin * Autumn's Ambassadors * What's in a Name? * Red Wine & White Meat * Let's Talk Turkey * French Food * Butter'em Up * Holiday Hors d'oeuvres * Christmas Bread Pudding * The Woes of Dieting * Braising in winter * Fiesta * Knives * Hail Caesar! * Sweet Tarts * Food of Love * Happy as a Clam * Asparagus: Spring * New Orleans Classics * Sweet Taste of Success * Spice Up Your Life! * Some Like it Hot * Beauty is in the Taste * Easter Roasted Lamb * Hot Little Farm in N.J. * All Choked Up * A Noodle by Any Other Name * Getting Saucy! * Follow the Recipe * Fast Food * Unscrambling the Egg * Fire up the Grill! * When Harry Met Saucy * Waiter, My Soup is Cold! * Chianti * A Hill of Beans * Cooking With Brains * Un-Wimpy Burgers * Rocket Man * So You Want to be a Chef * Cilantro * A Standard For All Seasons * SEAR-ious Flavor * Cooking Phobia * Liguria * Send it Back * Into the Frying Pan * When Opposites Attract * When Recipes Go Awry * The Fungus Among Us * I Think, Therefore I Don't Eat * Devilishly Good Food * Party Time * Have a Little Taste * What's Up Doc? * On the Side * A Bad Taste in Your Mouth * No Whey! * Variety is the Spice of Life * Holiday Party Hors d'oeuvres II * Champagne * Blanching 101 * Gourmet Food * Something Fishy Going On * Provence * No Substitutions Please * The Taste of Texas * Popeye's Secret Weapon * Red Meat, White Lies * Turn the Dial to Broil * Custard's Last Stand * Caveat Emptor * Easter Pie * Bordeaux * Peas in a Pod * The Mousse is Loose! * In the Thick of It * The Double-Edged Sword * Wine and Dine * Chuck Wagon * Timing is Everything * Almond Joy * Cheers Comrade * Comfort Food * Suzette: Woman of Mystery * A Recipe for Success * License to Chill * Summer Salads * Poaching 101 * When Life Gives You Lemons. * You Are How You Eat * Garden Variety * Tomatoes
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* To Complain or Not * Peel Out! * In the Nick of Thyme * I Left My Heart in San Francisco * The Root of the Matter * The Big Apple * The Cost of Convenience * The Legacy of the Huntress * The Devil's Seed * Paradise by Stovetop Light * Put a Cork in It * On the Side II * When Worlds Collide * The Tree of Life * Holiday Hors d'Oeuvres III * Culinary Connections * Ladies of the Evening * Let Them Eat Cake * Wine Snobbery * Marinades & Rubs * What's the Difference * Up Against the Wall * Get A Leg Up * That's What They Say * Hot & Steamy * Cooking with Wine I * Cooking with Wine II * Spring Delicacies * Cornwall, Legends, etc. * Swiss Chard * Matzo * Go With Your Gut * Trout: Fit for a King * What's the Difference 2 * For Whom the Bell Tolls * I Did It My Way * Any Port in the Storm * Corned Beef's Finest Hour * What's Your Excuse * Summer Salads II * Fruit of the Conquistador * Sichuan * Debunking the Myths * Roux the Day * A Nut from America * Dangerous Liaisons * When the Cat's Away... * The World is Your Oyster * Salt of the Earth 1 * Salt of the Earth 2 * Fancy That * The Boiling Point * Using Your Noodle * Look Ma, One Hand! * Poblanos * A Matter of Trust * Friuli * A Witch in the Rye * Cool as a Cucumber * Can You Eat That? * Fond Memories: Deglazing * Leaving Turkey Aside * Barolo: Hail to the King * The Upper Crust * Cutting the Mustard * Holiday Baking * Dining on Death Row * What's for Breakfast * Eggs Benedict: Nothing's Over Easy * Hollandaise * The Qualities of Quality * Mix It Up * Wine Anxiety Disorder * Cod: British Gold * What Are You Looking At? * Potatoes I * Potatoes II * Potatoes III * A Penny Saved is a Penny Earned * Nothing To Sneeze At * Cream of the Crop * Defining Moments * Do You Measure Up? * Cooking Outside the Box * A Recipe for Recipes * You Want Rice With That? * The Art of Dining * Time to Put the Hammer Down * Basil: Saint or Sinner? * No It Isn't * A Good Ribbing * Summer Salads III * Make a Mussel * Ignorance Is....... * Bread and Batter * The Spice of Angels * Supermarket Shenanigans I * Supermarket Shenanigans II * Born to Roast 1 * Born to Roast 2 * This Little Piggy I * This Little Piggy 2 * As Time Goes By * Going Bananas * Comrades in Food, if Not in Arms * Deciphering Wine Labels * Let's Go Dutch * The Bug Buffet * Stuff It * It Was A Very Good Year * On the Side III * Now That's Italian I * Now That's Italian II * Holiday Party Hors d'Oeuvres 4
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* Round and Round * Corkage Fees Uncorked * Flour Power I * Flour Power II * Eggplant: Botanical Identity Crisis * The James Bond Diet * Happy Chinese New Year * First Date Food * A Method to the Madness * Simmering 101 * Sticker Shock * Happy St. Patrick's Day * Soup's On! * The Other White Wine * Beeting the French * Black Eyed Peas * All You Can Eat * Switch Hitters * The Salmon of Wisdom * En Papillote * The Crap Shoot * To Sauce or Not to Sauce * The Best of Both Worlds * What's the Green Stuff? * Silence is Golden * Sauternes * Summer Salads IV * Maximizing Flavor I * Maximizing Flavor II * Under the Gun * Stir Frying * A Good Tongue-Lashing * A-Maize-ing I * A-Maize-ing II * Hanlon's Razor * The Angel's Share * Lobster a l'Americaine * Location, Location, Location * Sandwiches * Deep Frying I * Deep Frying II * A Monarch and a Pear Tree * At Your Service * Chicken Soup 101 * Off With Their Heads! * Dressed to Kill Dinner * The Invisible Hand * On The Side IV * How Sweet It Is * Soaking Wet * A Nut from Hawaii * Rare is Getting Rarer * Linzer Cookies * In Vino Veritas * Grazing the Bar * What do you Expect? * High Five * Pâté * Reviewing the Reviewers * Food of Love * Remember Rosemary? * A la Normande * Keep Off My Food * The Bum's Rush * Doing the Can-Can * Flavored Oils * Barbera & Dolcetto * The Whole Fish II * Table Manners * A Sticky Situation * Healthy Diet, Unhealthy Mind * A Mexican Feast * The Dragon Herb * Mr. & Mrs Scallop * Funny Bones * Fat Is Where It's At! * To Air is Human * Belly of the Beast * Summer Salads V * Jamaican Jerk * Let There Be Light * Summer's Heirs * All Rise * Duke of Wellington * Whines by the Glass * Cabbage Sprout * Alsace * Out of Proportion * I Can't Believe It's Not Butter * Drink Not With Thine Enemy * The Truthiness About MSG * Celery Root (Remoulade) * To Be Or Not To Be * Food for the Immortals * TV Dinners * Space for Rent * The Good Shepherd * Chestnuts Roasting/Open Fire * Holiday Party Hors d'oeuvres V * Mac & Cheese * Cognac * Navarin of Lamb * Tell'em What They Want to Hear * Do the Twist * The Real Deal * The Muffin Man * The Carrot and the Stick * Asian Sauces
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